Enjoying Cigars in Italy

We kicked off October with an exciting whirlwind trip to northern Italy, which explains the brief pause in posting. Our journey took us through Venice, Murano, Burano, Padua, Ravenna, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Pisa, Florence, Siena, and Milan. What a ride! While we’ve previously explored the southern regions of Italy, this northern adventure was a fresh and unforgettable experience. Italy is rich in history, culture, and religious landmarks, making it impossible to take it all in on a single trip. Besides soaking in the sights and indulging in the incredible food, I always look forward to the opportunity to enjoy a few cigars in an environment far more welcoming to this pastime than in the U.S.

I packed a couple of travel humidors with cigars from home, but I was also on the lookout for cigar shops, hoping to pick up some Cuban cigars I’d been eager to try. In Italy, you’ll frequently encounter tabaccherias, or “tabacchi” shops. These small stores are like convenience shops, offering everything from tobacco products to lottery tickets, train passes, and stamps. The most common cigars found there are dry-cured Italian cigars, like Toscano. Early on in the trip, I picked up a pack of Toscano Classico, an inexpensive yet richly flavored smoke that I always enjoy, whether in Italy or back home.

My first chance to enjoy a cigar on this trip came in Venice. After a gondola ride through the canals on a sunny morning, we were hit with torrential rains in the afternoon. But during a brief break in the downpour, I seized the moment, lit up a Toscano, and enjoyed a relaxing stroll. I rarely smoke while walking at home, but in Italy, it’s a simple pleasure that feels perfectly natural.

Amidst all the sightseeing, and despite the frequent rain showers, I still found moments to enjoy a cigar and a drink at street-side cafés. After a fascinating visit to the Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto factories in Parma, we stopped at a café in the heart of the city for some afternoon refreshments. It was the perfect opportunity to light up another Toscano Classico, while savoring a generously sized Negroni and a delicious pastry.

With the combination of busy schedules and unpredictable weather, it wasn’t always easy to find time to relax during the day. More often than not, I found those moments of peace after dinner, back at one of the hotels where we stayed.

For a late evening cigar I usually enjoyed one of the cigars I had brought from home, such as the AJ Fernandez Dias de Gloria Brazil Robusto shown above. The Bira Messina Cristalli di Sale purchased at the hotel bar was refreshing, even if it does come from an Italian Heineken brewery.

We stayed four nights at a very nice hotel in Montecantini. They had a large covered patio with plenty of seating. Unfortunately the hotel bar was not open every night — the service schedule seemed to be irregular.

On the first evening at the hotel, I took advantage of the clear night to enjoy a Perdomo Reserve 10th Anniversary Sun Grown Robusto I had packed from home. Alas, the bar was closed. 

It was mid-trip, while visiting Florence, that I came across the Tabaccheria San Giovanni Di Simonetti Mauro in the square near the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The well-reviewed shop had a fairly sizable selection of premium cigars, both the usual Nicaraguan and Dominican brands, as well as some Cubans. I picked up a few moderately priced Partagas Serie D No. 4.

Located in that same square was, of all things, an Irish pub. Of course we stopped in for a quick beer. 

The next evening, the hotel bar open, I shared a Partagas with a fellow traveler and we enjoyed the cigars, again with Negronis, before dinner. It was raining, so the covered patio was welcome.

I was pleasantly surprised by the Partagas Serie D. I did not take note of the date on the box at the store, so had no idea if the cigars' age. They seemed to be in good shape and showed no signs of cracking or damage. The flavor profile, as with all the (limited) Cuban cigars I've smoked, was on the mild side. The flavor had a sweet, cream and vanilla profile. There was a hint of cinnamon present but overall it was a quite mild smoke. 

The trip itinerary was filled with much more than cigars obviously. As always, there was copious delicious food and drink to be enjoyed. We moved around a lot, taking in numerous northern Italian cities. I had hoped to visit a store with a full selection of Cuban cigars. It was not until our last day, while in Milan, that I came across Noli Fumatori in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. I did only some window shopping as there would be no time to consume any purchases before flying home.

The acceptance of personal choices in Italy, and Europe as a whole, is a stark contrast to the judgmental attitude found in America, despite the well-established freedoms we profess and enjoy here. Cigarettes and "e-cigs" are the prevalent choices, but cigar smokers are seen frequently. After finishing one quick lunch during the trip, our server came by and placed an ashtray on the table, as if the after-meal smoke was expected. I compared that to the shocked reaction shown by one of my traveling companions when she saw the remnants of a previous evening's cigar in the ashtray on a hotel patio in the morning. (Most days the outdoor ashtrays were emptied very early in the morning, if not late at night.)

More cigars, and drinks, were enjoyed than documented here, most of the time I didn't bother trying to get a photo, and just enjoyed the moment.

It was another great trip — despite our Irish heritage we truly enjoy visiting Italy. It's still the only place to get a proper espresso! I have no doubt this trip, our third to the country, will not be our last. 

Cheers!